Multi Day Update

Monday May 12, 2008
Things we have learned:
1) It is a far, far better thing to plane than train.
2) You can have too much luggage.
3) The terracotta warrior site is beautifully done.
4) When traveling with children you do not get to see all you might want.
5) Nancy and Ellen like to shop.
6) Nancy is far, far better at bargaining than Ellen.
7) Our luggage is way overweight. See points 2 and 5 above.
8) Children that fall asleep in vans for long periods do not also sleep at night for long periods.
9) Point 8 above makes their mother cranky.
10) The terracotta warriors were so beautiful that we felt the earth shake.

Now for the explanations of the points above. We are currently sitting in the airport in Xian. It is a nice bright airport, howevere, we would rather be on our way. The flight is listed as delayed. A common occurrence you might think. The difference is the posted reason for the delay. Earthquake. Yes, earthquake. We felt it here in Xian and apparently it was stronger in Chengdu. Personally, I cannot understand how an EARTHquake affects and AIRplane. See my point? And yet, here we sit.

Yesterday it rained and so we did not go to tourist sites in Beijing. Yulin, our agency director came and met us at our hotel and took us to a wonderful Chinese restaurant for lunch. Excellent food and she is a terrific guide. Then we went to the Silk market. Think giant, upscale flea market all knockoffs. Yulin took Chloe and KangKang shopping to buy us mother's day gifts. (with money we supplied, still it is the thought that counts.)  They chose pearls and jade pendants. Apparently Kang Kang was quite certain of what he wanted to buy.  Nancy and I bought clothes for the kids including beautiful silks, which they can wear on the cruise. She is terrific at bargaining and really enjoys it, Not me. I just feel guilty. I like to shop without being pulled at and prodded. The kids attract a lot of attention and people feel free to point, stare, touch, grab, take photos at close range etc. It is especially bad when Chloe and Caleb are together in the stroller.

Then we took the kids to an indoor playplace where they had a blast. By then it had stopped raining and we could have gone to the Temple of Heaven but we had promised the playpark. So, there we were. From there we had a quick dinner at Pizza Hut, It was our first Western food and we figured every few days is fair. Then to the train. Well, remember the part about too much luggage. Train was at 9:24, not 8 as we had thought. Kids were wiped. Caleb was asleep and soon too was Chloe. Train stations have no porters. Train stations have no elevators. Trains stations have lots of stairs. Need I say more.  Nonetheless, we got on the train and our driver finally stepped up to the plate after being less than helpful for three days. Our guide was great.

Train was fun except for the fact the compartments were tiny. See point 2 above. Double decker berths. Kang Kang was in the upper compartment. Around 3 I suddenly feel a body part poking me, He had fallen out of the berth and did not even wake up.  There is a good point about too much luggage. An open suitcase was on the table beside the berth and he landed on the soft suitcase,  I slept on the top berth the rest of the night. A milestone for Chloe. She also slept in her top berth and not only did she not fall out, it was the first time she slept in a bed on her own. Nancy's baby is growing up.

We got off the train. Again, see point 2 above.  But, all kids were awake and alert and we put them to work hauling suitcases and strollers. Amazing how much weight a small child can handle in a good quality suitcase. Finally someone took pity on us and helped us with the bags for which we were extra grateful when we were met by our guide who announced that it was a 10 minute walk (!) to the van.  

They took us to a Terra Cotta warrior factory. We were the only ones there. Much easier when there is a whole tour bus to avoid the pressure sales. We bought not one thing. We planned to ask Emily, our Chengdu guide, to help us find real art,  reasonable jade etc but not happening apparently.

The Terra Cotta site was magnificent, beautiful landscape and architecture. I think we upset our guie when we did not want to see all the buildings at the 18 minute movie. There is a limit to what 3 year olds can take.  Next…

Earthquake
FUCK! We felt it this afternoon as we were leaving the terrcotta warriors in Xian to head to the airport.No idea what it was about. Spent hours in the airport because I think we were not Chinese and therefore not worthy of being told what others were told although I asked.  We finally picked up our luggage again and went out to find out guide and remained and waited for us. Thank God. No Mandarin here is a big problem. Since we had no cell there was no way for here to contact us.

Lots more time at the airport, all airport hotels booked. guide asks me which hotel we want?  What? Like I know one from another?  I said fine, Bell tower hotel. Somehow we ended up in the Xian Hotel. One word. Don't. 4 star and we upgraded to the business floor so we have internet. When I came in the room stunk of some air freshner spray.  I hate that stuff. It is wearing off. I miss it. Room stinks of smoke and pee. Oh well, the sheets look clean. No supper. The kids are wiped. Oh yeah, last night we were on a train. Fun but only if you have no luggage. No porters. Yes stairs. More on that later.

From here, who knows?  If we are here a couple of days hotel suggestions please?

I must get to Chengdu to see Kang Kang's foster family. That was supposed to be tomorrow morning.  Even the Yangze river cruise may be affected as that area is also involved. So, tonight, sleep. After that...

Tuesday May 13, 2008\The day we are supposed to be in Chengdu visiting Kang Kang's foster parents. There was an earthquake. All bets are off. Last night we sat at the gate waiting for news.  There was an English speaking agent at the gate and I periodically asked him what was happening. He kept saying that we would pick up our luggage and be taken to a hotel for the night. From there we would be booked on a flight in the morning. "When?" I would ask. "5 minutes he would respond." Well, time went on.  Finally I went to him and pleaded, with kids in tow. He then suggested we go get our luggage and get on the bus. Where? Downstairs. Well that did not work. We return upstairs and he shows us where to get the luggage. From there, no one was interested in us. We could not get any help, information etc. But, ours was the only luggage there so clearly the Mandarin speaking people had been told long before what to do. By then there are no airport hotels. A bilingual fellow traveler was kind to us and offered to help and just then our guide showed up. She had been waiting all along but could not contact us. No paging over head in China?   She helped us cancel our flights and get to a hotel. If you do not speak Mandarin you are really lost here. She turns to me and asks what hotel I want? I look at her incredulously. Like I know hotels in Xian? I ask her suggestions. Not much response. Maybe do I want to Bell Tower Hotel? I am not sure. Price I ask? Shrug. And so it goes. I say fine. Bell Tower. It is a 40 minute drive so I wonder if they have rooms before we shelp there in 2 taxis. Oh. I am not sure what happened with that idea but we head downstairs and find ourselves booked into Hotel Xian. In one word. Don't. The Business floor, well there is a filthy, torn hallway runner that is all bunched up so you can trip over it. We ate at the Western Breakfast. Green eggs and ham anyone? Literally. Green scrambled egg. I had toast.  Nancy has brown water. Mine is clear but I would not put a bare foot down on the shower floor. Go Crocs.  We ask for a non smoking room. Yes, yes is the answer. I think yes meant "yes, I heard your request you silly westerners." The soap dish in the bathroom still has ashes on it. The room stinks. The floor is filthy. We are moving to the Howard Johnson. Yulin assures us it is the nicest hotel. Even when we look on the internet, hotels in this city do not get great reviews.

Here we felt the ground shake as though you were on a ship on the ocean on a calm day. Noticeable but not dramatic.  Chendu seems to be fairly okay but the epicenter was not far and there is lots of damage around. Our guide Emily sent us an email. She is fine as is KK's foster family, but she seems very shaken and advised us to go home. We are doing no such thing, We now hope to go to Chengdu at the very end of our stay in China. For me it is the most important thing and we will get there if it is at all possible.

I hear there is great shopping in Xian. Go back and read my post from Beijing. See point 2.

Photos will have to wait. Internet is verrryyyy slow here.

Ellen et al.